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Try to provide an impartial view as appropriate; e.g., the answer to a question like 'What is the best lathe?' should not simply be 'BrandX'. Also, it's better to be concise simply because of the way the FAQ displays. If you want to write a detailed report on a subject that is asked frequently, then it might be better to post it in the FILES section, and then post a reference to it here. This is advice only, as there is no intent to censor anyone.
It happens sometimes. I mention that I make pens, and the astonished reaction follows, "You MAKE your own pens? WHY? You can buy a perfectly fine pen for a DOLLAR! WHY on EARTH would you MAKE them?"
I suppose this is a reasonable and valid question, especially in today's mass produced, 'one-size-fits-all' world. But it is a question that has no quick and simple answer. Perhaps, being more precise, it is a question that has far too many answers. I find myself somewhat at a loss for words as I try to explain deeply held beliefs and feelings. Why does a painter paint? Why does a builder build? Why do I make pens?
The first and foremost reason I make pens is for the joy of fashioning something I find beautiful and of worth. To watch the materials I have carefully selected be slowly transformed from their native state into a finished design of my choosing brings to me a great and overwhelming satisfaction, one that often defies description. Though perhaps on a different scale, I believe it is the same passion, the same joy of creation, that is known by the artist when he lays aside his brushes and views the finished painting, the architect and carpenter when they step back and gaze at the finished building, the author when she sees her published work.
This joy of creation, of having formed something one loves, is a heady and intoxicating emotion, indeed. I am, among other things, a writer. A pen is a major tool of this craft. As do many craftsmen, I derive considerable pleasure from the use of a well made tool. An exquisitely hand crafted pen, one who's size, weight, balance, and other characteristics have been chosen to fit MY hand, MY unique style of penmanship, is a joy to use. To have actually MADE that tool intensifies the pleasure.
As with all hand made products, no two pens are ever alike, just as no other person is like me, nor am I like any other person. This uniqueness brings about a character, a style that cannot be duplicated. Because of my intimate involvement in its creation, there is a part of me in each pen. I sometimes sit for minutes on end, lost in admiration of the small object d'art I now hold in my hand. The form, the finish, the materials; they all combine in ways that are beautiful to my eyes. Again, this beauty is partly a result of choices I made, of the skill with which I shaped and combined things. That I am in part responsible for that beauty is very satisfying.
One last reason, and perhaps the biggest one, truth be known, is the reaction my pens bring from those I show and present them to. I never tire of the wide-eyed looks of appreciation, or hearing the astonished and delighted exclamations of, "Wow! YOU made this? It's BEAUTIFUL!" Those words resonate deeply into my being, a tonic to my heart and a balm to my soul. They render inconsequential the hours and effort I have expended in the production of the object of admiration. They leave me eager to race back to my shop, burning with the desire to produce an even BETTER masterpiece the next time. The appreciation of one's efforts, be it artistic, literary, or whatever else, is something we all find fulfilling.
And this is why I make pens!
It has been my experience that the quest for advanced knowledge and techniques consumes way too much of the new turner's time and effort. So many posts question one advanced technique or another, desiring every minute detail, after prefacing the query with "I haven't turned my first pen yet," or "Well, I'm a newbie and am waiting on my lathe to arrive." Fine! I encourage the curiosity, the quest for knowledge.
However, my best recommendation, prior to reading a definitive treatise on advanced pen turning methodology, is turn some pens! Basic pens. start with the slim line pens, as they are arguably the most forgiving. Then move on to a basic European style.
As for tools, start with a basic 1/2" to 5/8" inch gouge. Keep it sharp, and turn. Sand your pens down to 400 grit. On your first pens you won't be able to tell the difference. Once you become comfortable, and confident that you can create a reasonably nice pen, that is to say you no longer need to look at the instructions for each pen, you are not yet an expert, just a comfortable turner. I would define comfortable as meaning "when you can describe the steps to a non-wood turning person, perhaps your spouse, or better yet, a child, then you are a competent, comfortable pen turner.
It is far too easy to get caught up in the desire to turn pens the likes of which we see here daily. Please keep in mind that these beauties were not their creators first pens. Much like the cooking or woodworking shows on TV, damn if they don't edit out the parts that didn't fit right. Ever wonder why these shows have a completed prototype to reference? They build one or more prior to the final show version. Even the most experienced amoung us still blows out an exceptional BB blank occasionally. It happens.
Materials? Basic blanks. For heavens sake, don't start off with a BB stabilized Oak Burl. Yes it's gorgeous. I have a box full of them. But it is very frustrating for a new turner to try and turn one of these diamond-hard blanks before they can turn down some basic softer materials. BB's blanks are worth every cent, yet awfully expensive to learn and experiment on.
Finishing? Hut's PPP to start. Why do people want to jump in the deep end by attempting a $20 high gloss, lasts-forever finish on a $3.50 pen made with a .50 cent blank from Woodcraft? The archives have probably as many hits on finishing as on which lathe is best (No, I didn't count them, nor do I intend to). Here again, get to a comfort level that will provide you with a basis for comparison, and then experiment.
Take the ideas presented, try one or two. Like it? Good, keep it. Don't like it? Try something else. Tell us what you tried, how it worked out. Turn, practice, enjoy. As your comfort level and experience increase, experiment. Try something new. New tool, finishing technique, material, whatever. But get in there and turn! Don't be afraid to make a few mistakes, because we all did, and still do.
Material Cards. Research the material. There are many sources for this information on the web, and also in many of the catalogs. By simply using my computer, I will make up cards with a picture of the material, a description of where it comes from, its scientific name, etc., and then include it with the pen. With the unique materials we use, people like the specialized information about their new pen.
Go to the Links section, then into the 'Instruction and Tutorials' section.
I enclose a card with each pen. The card can be printed very inexpensively at someplace like Kinkos. My card reads: "Pens of Distinction. Your distinct pen (#) was handcrafted with special care for your individual preferences. The wood for your pen was hand-selected, prepared, and turned with an eye for excellence. I am confident you will enjoy many years of fine writing with your new pen. This card is signed by the craftsman using your pen the day it was made."
The card is then signed, the pen number is added, and then the date and material is written on the back or bottom of the card.
A dust collector is an investment that your lungs will thank you for. There are many different types and sizes commercially available that will help protect your health and, at the same time, help you keep your shop cleaner.
One thing to keep in mind, however, is that debris traveling through the dust collector's hose can and will build up static electricity. It is important that you electrically ground the hose so that the chance of a static discharge is lessened. Grounding kits are available or you can do it yourself by wrapping bare wire (14 to 16 ga.) around the outside of the vacuum hose and connecting one end to the dust collector and the other end to the metal clamp used to connect the hose to the chute used to collect the debris at the lathe. If the chute is metal, connect the wire directly to the chute.
You need a way of squaring the ends of a pen barrel to the axis of the glued-in tube. A pen mill or barrel-facer is a good way. You can also use a stationary sander (belt or disk) with a little jig.
There is no standard for mandrel diameters; therefore, no manfacturer guarantees their bushings will fit anyone else's mandrel, or vice versa. There seem to be two major diameters out there: 7mm and 8mm.
7mm will let the tubes used in 7mm kits side on, and 8mm will allow the tubes for American Flat Top Pens (a.k.a. Parker Style) and others slide on. Everyone has a 7mm mandrel available. Berea and HUT also have 8mm mandrels.
If you have bushings that don't quite fit a particular mandrel, you can ream them out to the right size. It is best to have several mandrels around if you use kits and bushings from several different companies.
See the article in "Files" section of the Yahoo group. Look in the first folder for a document labeled 1A Reference.
The easiest thing to do is to use laser engraving. Laser engraving is typically performed after a pen is completely finished, either on just the barrel or on the completed pen. The reason to do it after finishing is that there is some splatter created during laser engraving, and it comes off easier from a polished surface. You can do either the upper or the lower barrel. The clip is typically not in the way. Some people are able to find a local service, but there are mailorder services also, so check the links section.
On light woods the engraving often comes out darker and has enough contrast by itself. Darker woods often need a little help to make the engraving show up. You can use acrylic latex artists paint, apply it with a brush into the grooves, and quickly wipe any excess off the top. Some people use a product called Rub'n'Buff, available in hobby stores; howver, I find it to be a little too quick drying, but it may just be a question of my technique. It is also possible to ask the engraved to zap very deep grooves before finish-turning, fill these with colored epoxy, then perform the final turn and polish.
If you want to purchase a laser engraving machine, they are fairly expensive beasts usually costing in excess of $10,000 to $20,000!
Again, go to the files section and look in folder 1A Reference. Open up the PDF file titled "mylands", or go to this link.
Check out a file in the files area in the 1A Reference folder at this link.
Berea Hardwoods is a major importer and distributor for pen kits, but they also have excellent wood, acrylics, tools, etc., for the penmaker.
Pen kits, tools, materials, full line of supplies for Pen Turners.
Pen kits and other kits, wood blanks, acrylic, and more.
A one-stop shop for various manufacturer's kits and woods.
SPackard sells pen kits, tools, lathes, wood, books, videos, and all kinds of pen supplies.
Pen and other kits, blanks, crushed velvet, Decora, antler, tagua, Banksia pod, turning tools, machinery, etc.
Website coming soon - but currently offering everything Penn State offers at a cheaper price!
Mail order source for pen turning supplies. They cater mostly to owners of the lathes they manufacture. They do have some unique pen kits not available elsewhere.
A Craft Supply shop in Canada.
General woodworking tools and supplies, including pen kits, supplies and tooling.
Rich Kleinhenz' notes on making Berea's Perfect Fit RB and FP.
Some instruction sheets for CSU kits.
Tips and other valuable information about laser engraving.
Many very good and *free* projects available, with complete how-to-do-it instructions
Detailed documentaries of a variety of pens, including closed-end baseball pen, Perfect Fit rollerball, American flat top fountain pen, 7 mm Euro, and more.
This is an article on speed-drying wood using a microwave.
Instruction sheets for PSI kits.
Universal Laser Systems "How To" tutorials.
Basic pen making tutorial.
Instruction sheets for Woodcraft kits - click on 'Product Instructions' under 'Special Features' then select 'PenPencil Kits'.
Pictures of quite a few wood species.
For specific queries for woods in the Leguminosae family.
Site doesn't have a research function, but still lots of good information.
Enter a scientific name to obtain current information about the name.
Search by genus or common names.
On-line searchable database of many species.
The main site for Woods of the World. This link may not work until they come online again.
Bill Baumbeck supplies high quality pen blanks, stabilized and unstabilized, as well as crushed semiprecious stone.
Provider of quality Veneer.
A large selection of exotic and classic wood pen blanks.
Supplies bulk wood, pen blanks, acrylics, kits, tools, etc.
Hawaiian hardwoods direct.
Some great and rather unusual woods from Laos like afzelia and pradauk (100+ quantities).
Exotic hardwoods.
Wisconsin burls, spalts, crotches and other exotic pen blanks. Pine lumber.
Specialist in Figured, Unique and Tone Woods.
Lots of domestic and exotic woods.
They sell finishing supplies, stabilized woods, and also does custom stabilization of your woods.
Stabilized and non-stabilized woods, also offers stabilization service for your woods.
Quality veneer. (Be patient; his site is very slow)
Click on "Briar", then go to the "Plateaux" pieces for good sizes for pen blanks. When you order, there is a place for comments on the order form. Let them know you want the briar for pen making and Ginny will select a piece of plateaux that would be best for pen blanks.
Burls, burls, and more burls.
Emory Mclaughlin's wood turning gallery.
Idaho wood turning guild and resource center. Extensive links and articles.
North Carolina Woodturners Association
Sells pens, but also has Antler available for sale.
Angelo's web site for those interested in general turning.
Jim Lambert's hobby-turned-business web site with many pen pictures and wood samples.
FAQs, and tips.